Wednesday, May 29, 2013

A First-Hand Taste of Ethnography in Capivari

“It’s time for a true ethnographic experience!” Said Professor Campbell, almost giddy with the possibilities. Those were a few of his final words before leaving six of the EJB boys in the care of a family in the rural village of Capivari, where no one spoke anything other than Portuguese. As the bus pulled off with the rest of the group, the six young men from the U.S. took their places in the children’s rooms which had been vacated specifically for the group’s stay. Not knowing what to expect, the wait began.

The houses were clean and orderly, but in need of some repair. Thatched ceilings drooped down in the corners, needing to be replaced or fixed soon. The task of weaving often falls to the women in a given culture, and tonight the women were busy with preparing a satisfactory meal for a group of hungry Americans who had never been to a place like Capivari before. The guys from EJB were just looking forward to warm food and some sleep.

A town of maybe 500 people, Capivari is an unofficial quilombo community, meaning inhabited by the descendants of escaped slaves. The official recognition process is a long one which requires a good deal of research, not to mention community consensus, and Capivari had not officially begun seeking recognition. More than just filing paperwork, some people struggle with the notion of accepting the slave history of their ancestors, and it can also inspire self-hatred due to social pressures such as “whitening”.
               

What occurred that night in Capivari were two groups of people separated by a language barrier. The boys knew enough to say “thank you” in Portuguese, and little else. Their hosts knew no English but were clearly practiced in sign language to get their messages across – “dinner is served”, “help yourself”, “would you like more?”, notions of hospitality and generosity. The guys from EJB were simply as polite as they could be. Two parties, so close in proximity yet so far in understanding. And both were trying to meet the other’s expectations without being able to discern what they were.

No comments:

Post a Comment